One of my favorite bloggers, Michael Williams of A Continuous Lean, just so happens to also be one of the most important people in menswear today. And Mr. Williams recently got a chance to tour the incredible Mr. Porter offices in London. After I gasped at how beautiful this office space was, I was struck by how very similar the Mr. Porter office’s are to my former employers Old Navy HQ office here in San Francisco, albeit the Mr. Porter space is much, much more high-end and (and a bit tidier…).

The Mr Porter offices are very appropriately situated atop one of the most massive shopping malls I have ever seen. Thankfully, American culture was not to fault for this carnival of consumerism, it was the Australians who are to blame. I’m thinking the Aussies saw it as some sort of modern day colonial revenge complete with valet parking. Interestingly, it is not everyday you see that in London. This point was illustrated by the fact that the valet required a sign explaining that they “park the car for you”.

 

It sort of makes sense for a company running an online store to be located so close to so much physical retail. It likely serves as a daily reminder of the need to think uniquely to serve the customer in a different way. I’m told though that the main reason the Net-a-Porter / Mr Porter offices are located at the Westfield is because of the availability of large footprint office space. These office space needs are obvious when you look at the growth and scale of things at the company.

Read the full ACL post on Mr. Porter’s London offices.

[Photos via A Continuous Lean]

He has held a special place in my fashion heart since premiering on The Rachel Zoe Project, and now that he’s gone off on his own I’ve only grown to respect (and crush on) the man that much more. Famous for his über preppy style, bow ties, and severe glasses, Brad’s been adding a pop of color to Monday nights on Bravo for five weeks now. And last nights episode was one of the best yet!

Brad recently sat down with Mediabistro to discuss his recent life and adventures. This is the first in a three-part series of the discussion with Brad, and in this part you see him discuss his view on the parting with Rachel.

And on a side note, while it is always incredibly interesting and inspiring to watch Brad work his styling magic and hustle for his next gig, it has been the non-work related, real-life moments where he and his long-term boyfriend, Gary Janetti, interact that have totally won me over. It’s not very often, as a gay man, that you see honest, real long-term relationships portrayed on TV in a way that doesn’t fit into silly gay stereotype. Its encouraging and comforting to see a relationship, much like mine, play out each week on It’s A Brad, Brad World.

Take a peak at all the MD coverage on Brad.

[Photos via BravoTV; Video via Mediabistro]

Putting the beyond annoying commercial aside, I’m really intrigued and excited by the news announced last week at a press conference in NYC that there is much, much-needed change coming to jcpenney (and yes, apparently it is all lower case with no punctuation now). Recently installed CEO, Ron Johnson, (formerly of Apple and Target) made a bold statement for the future of the iconic retailer, “We don’t want to be America’s favorite department store; we want to be America’s favorite store.”

Last month I talked about the need for drastic innovation in the mass retail space for sustainability and a better consumer experiences. So I find the news coming from jcpenney not only thrilling and long over-due, but a breath of fresh air. Which is a suitable feeling given that the folks at jcpenney tilted their presentation in NYC last week, “In Praise of Fresh Air.”

In this presentation Ron Johnson and Michael Francis (president) detailed a new vision for jcpenney, the changes we can expect to see, and when they will occur. Among the most radical changes that is being introduced surrounds the complicated pricing and promotional structure that has plagued jcpenney for decades, and I would argue this same pricing issue applies to most retailers. Radically re-thinking the layout of the sales floor and how the customers shop and interact with product, and the roster of brands that are carried. And lastly, launching a new brand identity.

While there is some healthy skepticism out there surrounding a few points of this transformation (i.e. length of time for complete transformation, new logo, etc.), I believe that the boldness of the vision and scale of the change at jcpenney is fantastic and encouraging. A new approach to the business of mass retailing is much-needed in an industry that is often not fast enough to innovate. If executed well, jcpenney’s changes should push both department stores and big box stores to innovate their shopping experience much faster than may have happened otherwise. And with luck, that ripple effect will be felt throughout the retail industry.

And in the end, that is only good news for the consumer. Clearer and more honest pricing with less confusion surrounding promotional messaging is an absolute necessity across the industry, and we would appreciate better and more inspiring actual shopping experiences.

Read the full jcpenney press release. Check out WWD’s thoughts on the change. And, NRF has a great blog piece on the announcements.

[Photos via WWD by John Aquino]

In addition to their full-time gigs, David and Victoria Beckham have built themselves a rather large apparel empire in recent years. David’s latest collaboration, Bodywear, for H&M may or may not generate the out-the-door lines of die-hard fashion fans that the Versace, Lanvin or Karl Largerfeld collaborations did, but it will certainly generate some heat.

As part of the global campaign to introduce the world to the David Beckham Bodywear collection, H&M has produced a stimulating (ah-hem..) commercial which will debut during Sunday’s Superbowl game. The ad, while certainly steamy, shows just about every part of David’s body except for the obvious part. Given how conservative the American football audience can be I understand the careful editing, but I also wonder if an unedited version featuring a full frontal Beck’s in those tighty whites may be lurking around… One can only dream, right? Perhaps the good folks at H&M will share that with us as well.

H&M and Mr. Beckham have inked what the Sweedish company is calling a “long-term alliance” the result of which is Bodywear. The collection, designed by David and his in-house creative team, will be sold exclusively at H&M with a focus on fit, function, comfort and design; and comprised of briefs, boxers, vests, T-shirts, pajamas and long johns. The collection will be available beginning February 2, 2012 at 1,800 H&M stores worldwide.

J.Crew continues its growth push with the opening of a new standalone suiting concept in TriBeCa next month. The Ludlow Shop will feature the now iconic Ludlow suit along with Thomas Mason shirts and their killer shoe assortment among other niche needs. J.Crew’s mens business has made a big impact over the past few years as they have gone after market share with increased attention to detail, quality and fit, killer assortments season-after-season featuring curated third-party product, and the opening of dedicated menswear only shops in Manhattan, San Francisco, and Boston. So it is not with too much surprise that the team at J.Crew is seeking to exert authority in specific specialty areas of the apparel business.

J.Crew’s CEO, Mickey Drexler, spoke to WWD last week:

The Ludlow suit has become a business unto itself at J. Crew…We were so squeezed at the Liquor Store that we found we were not able to service the Ludlow customer properly.

With J.Crew’s success in creating strong and unique destination experiences, such as The Liquor Store, and with a strong focused point of view on menswear trends then The Ludlow Shop will surely be an amazing opportunity for the retailer. And I can’t wait for my next trip to NYC to check it out.

Check out more MD coverage on J.Crew and Mickey Drexler.  And read the full WWD story.

I’m going to go out on a limb and bet that you probably didn’t know that iconic French fashion house Chanel owns a grand cru classé winery. And not just any winery; Chanel owns Château Rauzan-Ségla and is celebrating the vineyards 350th anniversary with an exclusive release of a 2009 Bordeaux with a label designed and signed by the legend, Karl Lagerfeld, himself!

Founded in 1661 by Pierre de Rauzan, Château Rauzan-Ségla, situated in the heart of the Margaux appellation, tends with the utmost care and respect to its vines. With its unique experience in luxury goods, CHANEL, who acquired the property in 1994, endeavours to exalt the unique and precious qualities of this great vineyard.

 

The incomparable rich bouquet, silky intense tannins and elegant taste make this Grand Cru Classé an exceptional wine. On its 350^th Anniversary and to celebrate the exceptional quality of last year’s wine Château Rauzan-Ségla is proud to announce a very special collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld: he has designed a unique coloured version of the Château Rauzan-Ségla label for the 2009 vintage.

This Grand Cru Classé will hit stores in March at fine wine purveyors nationwide for $129, and is now available for pre-order. Click the image above (or here) to watch a short clip on the release.

Legendary British luxury menswear house Alfred Dunhill is celebrating the upcoming 2012 Summer Olympic games; which will be held later this year in London, by adding three celebrated Olympians to their Spring / Summer ad campaign. Featuring retired rower and four-time Olympic gold medalist Sir Matthew Pinsent, two-time European Silver medalist and Olympic hopeful gymnast, Louis Smith, and double Olympic gold-medal winning sailor, Iain Percy in a series of gorgeously shot black-and-white portraits. The campaign was shot by fashion photographer David Sims, and showcases each of the (very) handsome athletes with quotes by each discussing what its like to be a champion in their sport.

My Standard very quickly became winning. After achieving an Olympic gold medal, a silver is not a good result, so winning became my driving force.

 

But it’s very rare for someone just to succeed time and time again. The people who succeed are usually the people who have failed and learnt from that experience, come back and won. Failure has a lot of lessons in it, and if you tease out the ingredients to failure and use them, then it is really valuable because you can stop it happening again. Having an understanding of why you fail and knowing what your weaknesses are is important, in life and in sport. It’s about being honest with yourself.

- Sir Matthew Pinsent, Olympic rower

Find out more about the Dunhill ‘Voice’ campaign, including short video interviews of the Olympians. You can even shop the looks worn by the athletes, including the amazing camel wool coat worn by Iain Percy.

The Dunhill ‘Voice’ campaign chooses to celebrate real men of different ages and from different backgrounds, who have achieved great things in their chosen fields. The Spring / Summer ad series represents the third consecutive season of the ‘Voice’ campaign for Dunhill.

“Our goal is to create a different kind of environment. A marketplace that really stimulates creativity and inspires retailers.” – Andrew Pollard, PROJECT, President

PROJECT is unlike any traditional trade show that you’ve ever seen. With a focus on creativity, community, and the authenticity of brands; PROJECT brings together emerging talent, brands that we all know and love with the most influential people in the business in beautifully curated spaces. PROJECT represents a fundamental shift in thinking for the retail industry and suppliers, and provides a forum for discussion on new ways to approach the business.

I find the work that the folks at PROJECT do so incredibly inspiring, and I love and appreciate the creativity that comes to, and out of, each show.

Check out this recap of the latest PROJECT NY, including commentary on the show by Brett Fahlgren; Todd Snyder, Todd Barket, and even a glimpse of style icon Nick Wooster. PROJECT NY was held Jan 16 – 18, and PROJECT LV will be held Feb 13 – 15.

Alber Ebaz and Lucas Ossendrijver are moving fashion forward in a very relevant, wearable way. Where so many shows have paid homage to the past, updated classic looks, or gone far into the future; Lanvin showed what their guy wants to wear now. With a slight nod to the 70′s, Lanvin decided that their guy wanted to express himself in new shapes while projecting and sense of power with an urban sensibility (i.e. large and dropped shoulders, cinched waists, and elongated trousers).

The collection is strong, gorgeously cut, and completely covetable. Score another win for Ebaz and the Lanvin team.

[Photos via GQ]

If anyone feared that the workwear trend was waning, Junya Watanabe set those fears to rest with his latest collection for Fall ’12. Utilitarian inspired fashion will be with us for a bit longer. Mr. Watanabe has been in a glorious state of Golden age thinking for several seasons. And to my personal delight, he has continued his exaggerated interpretation of classic, rugged, American work apparel. But you won’t see any lumberjacks sporting these looks. Hipsters in cities around the world are for sure making their fall shopping list.

For more MD coverage on Junya Watanabe.

[Photos via GQ]

  
It wouldn’t be a good Gaultier show without a lot of highly stylized theatrics and some puzzled head scratching. He is, after all, the famed “enfant terrible.” For his Fall ’12 menswear collection I got the sense that Jean Paul was dressing a cast of roving bandits in some science fiction alternate reality where Steampunk met the ’40′s.  But it seems that his message may have gotten muddled in the vastness of ideas that he presented in many confusing layers.

Yet hidden in all the over the top drama of what is on the surface a seemingly disjointed collection (not to mention a disturbing amount of brick patterned fabric), are incredibly gorgeous pieces that I’ve featured here. Mr. Gaultier just wanted to make you dig deeper to find the goods. Which was perhaps his intention all along? Sometimes you have to sort through the rubble (bricks) to find the beauty and the lesson…

However; while I respect Mr. Gaultier’s famed and non-conformist approaches to fashion; I hope that for Spring ’13 he returns with a stronger theme and a more clearly defined (and edited?) collection.

On a  related note, The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco are set to present the first major exhibit devoted entirely to Mr. Gaultier at the famed De Young Museum; which just happens to be a few blocks from my house. I’m super excited to see this show which will feature 130 ready to wear looks from Gaultier’s archives dating back to the late ’70′s. The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk runs March 24, 2012 - August 19, 2012.  Visit the De Young site for more details.

[Photos via GQ]

The Ports 1961 Fall ’12 collection is the definition of strength in point of view. Ian Hylton wanted to let shape, cut and proportion tell the story of the Ports man. And where some have critiqued the collection for its lack of color, I feel that Mr. Hylton succeeded in his vision precisely because of that restraint. The attention to beautiful shapes, precise silhouette’s, and clear detail may have been lost by added color just for the sake of color.

Isn’t it great when a designer knows when to stop? For me, this collection is perfection.

[Photos via Style]

It’s only Louis Vuitton’s second dip into the menswear pond and they’ve done so masterfully. Kim Jones wasn’t just sending out a gorgeous collection — he was teaching a lesson in luxury ready to wear. Combining traditional luxury fabrics such as camel, silk, crocodile, and leather with techno fabrics Jones combined old with new and showed that, yes indeed, the devil is in the details.

Incredibly luxe and large scarves, intricate suiting, and expertly crafted bags and luggage came down the catwalk. But it was the statement outerwear where Mr. Jones caught my full attention; including, full coats made from Vuitton blankets, camel coats with just the right amount of excess, and the first techno parka that I’ve every lusted after.

I’ve watched the show three times so far, and I’ve included it here (far below) because this is one show that should not be missed.

[Photo via Style]

The Balmain guy of Fall ’12 continues to be that bourgeois bloke holding court in the corner of the room with all the girls, whose ass you want to kick and who you despise, but also perhaps whom you secretly want to be and /or bed.

Balmain let us know this week that they are still elitist punk-rock even after a changing of the guards. Hipsters around the globe are secretly rejoicing as their style inspiration will be there for yet another season. While the collection retains Balmain’s strong military and rock influences at the core of the collection, Olivier Rousteing may have ever so slightly changed course adding a bit more refinement and sophistication. Fall ’12 may be a bit more crisp and clean, but it’s still the Balmain that we all love and adore. And can never afford.

[Photos via GQ]

The term “commerical” can be a very dirty word in the world of fashion, particularly during fashion week in Milan and Paris where the Avant-garde, theatrical, and couture are worshiped. But Ami is commercial in the best way possible. Alexandre Mattiussi showed gorgeously inspired layers of everyday pieces, including fantastic plaid barn coats, the best use of floral prints I’ve seen all season, and the most covetable plaid DB of Fall.

[Photos via GQ]

Mark McNairy has been, and is still, a breath of fresh air in the mens fashion scene. He represents a junction of heritage, luxury, street, and fuck you attitude that is rarely pulled off with any real authenticity. Mark has succeeded in growing his cult following while maintaining an ironic cool factor that other designers and brands often lose once they’ve become as well-known as has.

His Fall collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills is his best yet with the brand, with a tight story and a strong point of view. It’s got a golden age of workwear and preppy sensibility that has a strong modern edge. Each piece is lust-worthy, relevant and perfectly chosen. Not too much, and not too little. It’s just right. Adore the fur-lined coats, bucket hats, and pops of yellow.

Click here for more MD coverage on Woolrich Woolen Mills. And here for Mark.

[Photos via Style]

There is so much leather going down on the runways of Milan and Paris for Fall ’12 that I think it must be a bad joke. Don’t get me wrong, I love a great leather coat. But the epicness of the leather is just — well hard to swallow. And all the leather pants. Oy very… They are hardly ever done well, and most of what I’ve seen from those who’ve trotted them out don’t even come close. Except for some that were shown at Jil Sander. Raf Simmons opened the Jil Sander show with three all leather looks that were impeccably cut and well put together. But then some of the leather pieces and looks that followed later in the show got more than a bit “quirky” for my taste, and verged on looking like black hazmat suiting. I prefer it when Mr. Simmons keeps his lines a little cleaner and a little slimmer, and I’m not sure that the leather afforded him that in some of the later looks in the show.

What won me over in the end was the incredible wool suiting, and fun novelty in the knits. While not my normal taste or style, Mr. Simmons holds a special place in my heart.

[Photos via GQ]

Speaking of swagger, do you ever look at a current Gucci show and think, “I wonder what Tom Ford thinks of this?” I can’t seem to think of a recent Gucci show where that thought hasn’t passed my mind. I’d love to know what he thinks of the collections today. It seems to me that we continue to see Gucci capitalizing on the sexy 70′s glam that Tom revived the brand with over a decade ago. But perhaps that isn’t a bad thing at all, and Frida Giannini certainly reminded us with the Fall collection that Gucci owns the rights to the 70′s.

She gave us gorgeous (floral!) suiting, leather trousers and outerwear, and velvet coats. I adored the chunky knits thrown over suiting, but what really stood out for me in this collection were the accessories: fantastic knee-length boots, sexy shades, and those bags! I adore the bags that were sent out down the runway. My only complaint, and it is the same as the Burberry Prorsum critique, are the far too thin models. Wouldn’t it be nice to see a healthier image of men walking the runway? I know that Ms. Giannini is all about severe and ultra slim proportions for her collections, but these models looked like they may have been battling a dangerous illness.

For more MD coverage on Gucci.

[Photos via GQ]

This is all about knowing how to layer in the winter with texture and pattern while not adding bulk. And the fur works especially well, for me, because of the denim layered underneath. I’m obsessed with Bruce Pask!

[Photo by Scott Schuman via The Sartorialist]

Everyone has been throwing around the term “swagger” lately when referencing menswear, and we all know about Italian swagger and machismo, so I knew that we had to be in for some fun in Milan last week. However; only a few designers and brands that showed in Milan actually possessed any actual swagger. And ironically one of those brands came from the Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten, that run Dsquared².

The Caten boys more often than not put on a sexy, masculine, theatrical extravaganza full of beautiful clothes that people can and will actually wear; which is refreshing in the Milan shows. And the boys are consistent from season to season in putting forth their very honed point of view on sophisticated Italian tailoring influenced heavily with Americana and urban themes. At the end of the day the net effect of their collections is strong, masculine and sexy clothes that I always, always want.

Check out more MD coverage for Dsquared2.

[Photos via GQ]