Nick Wooster’s New Gig

Since leaving his post as men’s fashion director at luxury retailer Neiman Marcus almost a year ago, the fashion aficionado has made an even bigger name for himself as a consultant with retailers like Gilt Groupe and Park & Bond, currating innovative shows like PROJECT Wooster, and with product collaborations with brands like Leffot and Orlebar Brown. Not to mention growing his celebrity among street style and menswear blogs. At the moment there is literally a cult following of the impeccably coiffed Wooster.

While I always knew that Nick would eventually find himself back at another large retailer, Friday’s announcement that he would be joining with Texas-based JCPenney threw everyone for a loop. In the highly unexpected move Mr. Wooster becomes VP, Brand, Design and Trend for Men’s for the struggling low-to-mid market department store. A move few, if any, could have predicted before Friday. I was never of the mindset that Nick would necessarily go back the luxury market where he clearly has much expertise (Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus); however I assumed that he would join the ranks of a retailer with a certain amount of cache or a specialty apparel retailer looking to regain its foothold (i.e. Gap), or more likely join Gilt Groupe in a full-time capacity. But Nick has never been afraid of a bold move, and clearly he sees something appealing about the opportunity with JCPenney.

JCPenney has been making waves since appointing Ron Johnson to the CEO post (former head of retail for Apple). Johnson has shaken up the ranks at the company and has made it clear that this isn’t just a new day at JCPenney – that he intends to fundamentally shake up the retail game. We’ve begun to see the future JCPenney in glimpses over the past few months: the glossy and joy filled new marketing, significant changes in pricing strategy, and a new approach to the product assortment. But what people are perhaps most familiar with in regards to these changes is the appointment of Ellen DeGeneres as the new spokesperson. This became such big news because, this being America of course, a group of right-wingers touting a platform of “traditional family and values” began a hate campaign against the retailer for hiring the openly gay, and much beloved celebrity. But that nonsense seems to have died down.

Now the big news, at least within the fashion community, is Nick’s new appointment. Some have raised eyebrows at the decision. After all, with his background firmly routed in luxury apparel Nick arguably has very little professional experience with the average middle-American guy that shops JCPenney. And does that guy care about who Nick is?At the end of the day I don’t think those two questions matter in the least.

Nick is clearly an inspired and creative individual who will bring a fresh perspective and will certainly breathe new life into the staid retailer. Something that we can all agree is necessary, particularly with JCPenney’s men’s assortment. A great merchant is a great merchant and will be able to use the guidance and creative direction that Nick provides to only better the game at JCPenney. The challenge here really is, can Nick contribute meaningfully to the team in a way that influences the guys shopping at Macy’s, H&M, Zara, and even Gap to walk into the store and give the JCPenny brands a shot? And can he retain the current customer and move him along the fashion ladder comfortably so as to not alienate him?

And the biggest question of all: Will Nick be able to juggle both this daunting job and those partnerships and collaborations that we have all come to love and want more of (and that have added to his celebrity)? I think he can do it and continue to inspire us all.

Check out our complete coverage on Nick Wooster.

[Photo via Racked by Anna Fischer]

Inspiration: A Few of My Favorite Things

Selvege denim. Check. Kick-ass NB’s. Check. The perfect trench. Check. Incredible leather tote. Check. Killer hat. Double check. Awesome execution of a Navajo blanket. Priceless.

[Photo via Justin Chung Photography]

A Conversation About Japan – PROJECT Wooster

Authenticity. Detail. Heritage. Quality. These are all things that come to mind when we think about what Japanese apparel brands are bringing to the fashion table today. And you can’t understate the importance of the effect that Japan has had on the resurgence of “Americana” and the thirst for heritage brands and authentic workwear inspired apparel.

The video features Jim Moore (GQ), Todd Snyder (Todd Snyder), Ryan (Parabellum), Jeremiah Mandel (Aloha Rag), and Takihito Yoshida (TO-KI-TO) discussing Japan’s importance in the world of menswear, inspiration and in trendsetting.

Oh, and you get a peep or two of Mr. Wooster himself.

[Video via ZOÏ Agency. Produced by PROJECT & Marcus Troy]

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier

David and I ventured out in the cold and rain today to view The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit at the de Young Museum; which just happens to be a few blocks from our house. The exhibit featuring the work of the often controversial designer was beautifully curated, and one of the most interesting aspects of the show was the “live mannequin” displays. Almost every mannequin had a video projection face that either spoke to you, smiled or winked. It was whimsical, quirky, provocative, and a touch of brilliance. Just what you’d expect from Jean Paul.

Featuring 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter designs created between the mid-1970s and 2010, along with sketches, documents, videos, and several of Mr. Gaultier’s personal effects this was one of the best produced and captivating fashion exhibits I’ve ever seen. Among all of the beauty there were also the iconic collaborations of dresses and costumes made for Madonna and Kylie Minogue’s concert tours and videos, as well as examples of Jean Paul’s beautifully intricate work utilizing beading and feathers.

I took a ton of photos, some of which I’ve included below. Unfortunately the lighting was necessarily conducive to capturing the intricacies of the garments, but gorgeous nonetheless. Click on each photo to expand.

Dubbed fashion’s enfant terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier launched his first prêt-à-porter collection in 1976 and founded his own couture house in 1997. Emerging as a designer in the 1970s, he developed his own dress codes that reflected the changing world around him. The openly gay Gaultier uses his designs to tackle gender and transgender issues through androgynous, gender-bending styles, meanwhile delving even further into some of the darker areas of the sexual revolution. Always provocative, he addresses issues of multiculturalism by bringing ethnic diversity to the Paris runway. Despite the gritty and sometimes controversial context of his collections, the clothes remain beautiful, superbly crafted with the finest dressmaking and detailing skills.




Madonna’s Girl Gone Wild

Almost thirty years after she burst onto the music scene with her dance hit, Everybody, Madonna is still throwing down the best in dance and pop music. And I’ve become absolutely OBSESSED with this video today. I really should have asked my mother for dance lessons as a kid…I’ve always wanted to dance with Madonna, especially after this video. Madonna’s latest video, Girl Gone Wild, reaches back to some of her most iconic videos of the 90′s, including Vogue and Erotica for visual and choreography inspiration. This is sure to be THE dance anthem of the summer and will have you shaking your ass on the floor ’till the daylight comes. Hit play, maximize the screen and turn this shit up!

Billboard is saying this of Madonna’s latest album, MDNA: “A collection of thoroughly pumping pop tunes, some of which are slices of sheer brilliance.”  MDNA sees Madonna reunite with William Orbit with whom she worked with on producing the Ray of Light album. So you know that means that MDNA is sure to be epic! This may just be the album to finally get me back in the club on a Saturday night shaking my ass…

MDNA will be released on March 26. And P.S., can we just mention that girlfriend is 53!

 

Florence Broadhurst for Kate Spade Tour Bus Pop-up

David and I are in L.A. for a long weekend with the family, and we popped over to The Grove this afternoon for a bit of shopping. And weren’t we lucky that the Florence Broadhurst x Kate Spade pop-up bus was parked front and center!

We love everything Kate and Jack Spade — they simply have the most beautiful and fun product and the most gorgeous, whimsical and unique retail formats. So leave it to Kate to roll-out a stunning tour bus pop-up shop to celebrate their collaboration with Australian artist Florence Broadhurst. If you happen to be in one of the cities where the bus is parking you should definitely pop in for the fun! I took a few pics of the bus and pieces that are totally lustworthy.

Oh, and while your at it…check out everyone’s favorite stylist, Brad Goresk’s, top picks for Spring! #POC




Burberry Prorsum Women’s Fall ’12

I think that I’ve watched the Burberry Prorsum A/W 2012 womenswear show six times today. It is by far my favorite women’s collection of the Fall ’12 season, and was everything that I was looking forward to after a stellar men’s show in Milan last month.

To the hauntingly beautiful tune of Joan Armatrading’s It Could Have Been Better, Christopher Bailey sent out yet another stunning collection of equally beautiful pieces entitled, Town and Field. He wanted to blend those two worlds together and did so in a seemingly effortless way. From the very first bellow pocket panelled tweed trench coat to (my favorite) pencil skirts adorned with a dramatically structural ruffle, and the most gorgeous cinched riding jackets (adore!) to grace a runway in quite some time this was a collection of absolute creative perfection.

Christopher’s skills clearly excel in Burberry’s iconic platform, outerwear, but with this and recent past collections he has firmly placed Burberry as leader of the pack when it comes to the highly competitive world of accessories. And while the overall mood of the show could have been misconstrued as somber, there was sheer joy and youthful exuberance that popped from each piece to elevate ones spirit.

[Video and photos via Burberry]




 

 

Ralph Lauren Fall ’12

Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12

Ralph Lauren reached back into his repertoire last week to remind us all (as if we’d forgotten) of why he is the king of American sportswear. With vestiges of his work from the 70′s, 80′, and a glimmer of the 90′s evident in this collection Ralph took us on a journey through his best work from the past and made it all relevant again for today. And he again proved that not only is he the king of American sportswear, but of period dressing and menswear as womenswear. No one does that latter better than Ralph.

“I have always loved the heritage and romance of England. My collection for fall 2012 is about a modern glamour inspired by timeless character and refined elegance of an authentic way of living,’’ Lauren said in an email to the Associated Press.

So let’s focus on the menswear influenced portions of the show. To the opening score of PBS’s hit series Downton Abbey, Mr. Lauren’s models walked out in incredible 1920′s influenced menswear ensembles of perfectly layered luxe textures. Ralph showed elegant three-piece suits, plaid jodhpurs, Price of Wales and houndstooth checks, Fair isle sweaters, argyle socks, and the most expert use of leopard-print that I’ve seen in a very long time. And he brought back the iconic symbols of the English gentleman: top hats and walking sticks. I’d kill to see those make a comeback on the streets of modern-day New York and London.

Everything was styled to perfection for the Ralph Lauren women, and yet somehow while showing the ladies how to dress for Fall he’s managed to remind and influence legions of men of the fun and grace of true sartorial traditions.

View the full Fall ’12 collection.

[Photos via Style]

Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12

Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12 Ralph Lauren Fall '12

Inspiration: Discussing Retailing in Japan with Nick Wooster

I came across this video from PROJECT earlier this week, but with NYFW happening at the same time it got lost on my list. What Nick Wooster says mid-way through the video about picking the right product, and not just assorting your floor with product for the sake of trying to hit a financial target (i.e. comp), I believe is so very important for people who run apparel businesses (small or large) here in the U.S. (merchants, planners and leadership) to hear.

People, its a brave new world in retailing and you can no longer just focus on just your comp. It’s about selling great shit. Pick the right shit, and pay attention to and respecting the detail of that shit. And then its about putting that shit in a compelling environment that people actually want to shop in.

God I love Nick.

See more from PROJECT and PROJECT Wooster. And, of course, all MD coverage on Nick!

[Video via PROJECT]

N. Hollywood Fall ’12

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If a present day eccentric and fashion loving Frenchman suddenly found himself transported to New England in the 50′s / 60′s this may well be how he would dress himself. You should know by now if you’ve been following MD for any length of time that I absolutely LIVE for shit like this. Daisuke Obana has an affinity for the theatrical, so it is his ability to fully “go there” with a source of inspiration or point of reference without the end result feeling like a costume that is not only an admirable skill but rare in a sea of designers who don’t always know the difference.

The Hemmingway references are clear, as are The Old Man in the Sea inspirations. But this collection is completely relevant today and speaks to a large audience of men globally. I love that Mr. Obana provided us with an alternative idea on suiting for Fall with voluminous proportions that, again, are very believable and utterly covetable. We all know that the best heritage workwear and vintage inspired Americana right now comes from Japan. And with his Fall ’12 collection Daisuke shows us why. Obsessive attention to detail and tailoring, the perfect fabric choices, and incredible styling with not only the perfect layers and accessories, but textures, prove that this collection is one of the best examples of those genres.

View the entire, gorgeous, collection.

[Photos via GQ]

N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12

N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12

N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12 N. Hollywood Fall '12