Nick Wooster’s New Gig
Since leaving his post as men’s fashion director at luxury retailer Neiman Marcus almost a year ago, the fashion aficionado has made an even bigger name for himself as a consultant with retailers like Gilt Groupe and Park & Bond, currating innovative shows like PROJECT Wooster, and with product collaborations with brands like Leffot and Orlebar Brown. Not to mention growing his celebrity among street style and menswear blogs. At the moment there is literally a cult following of the impeccably coiffed Wooster.
While I always knew that Nick would eventually find himself back at another large retailer, Friday’s announcement that he would be joining with Texas-based JCPenney threw everyone for a loop. In the highly unexpected move Mr. Wooster becomes VP, Brand, Design and Trend for Men’s for the struggling low-to-mid market department store. A move few, if any, could have predicted before Friday. I was never of the mindset that Nick would necessarily go back the luxury market where he clearly has much expertise (Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus); however I assumed that he would join the ranks of a retailer with a certain amount of cache or a specialty apparel retailer looking to regain its foothold (i.e. Gap), or more likely join Gilt Groupe in a full-time capacity. But Nick has never been afraid of a bold move, and clearly he sees something appealing about the opportunity with JCPenney.
JCPenney has been making waves since appointing Ron Johnson to the CEO post (former head of retail for Apple). Johnson has shaken up the ranks at the company and has made it clear that this isn’t just a new day at JCPenney – that he intends to fundamentally shake up the retail game. We’ve begun to see the future JCPenney in glimpses over the past few months: the glossy and joy filled new marketing, significant changes in pricing strategy, and a new approach to the product assortment. But what people are perhaps most familiar with in regards to these changes is the appointment of Ellen DeGeneres as the new spokesperson. This became such big news because, this being America of course, a group of right-wingers touting a platform of “traditional family and values” began a hate campaign against the retailer for hiring the openly gay, and much beloved celebrity. But that nonsense seems to have died down.
Now the big news, at least within the fashion community, is Nick’s new appointment. Some have raised eyebrows at the decision. After all, with his background firmly routed in luxury apparel Nick arguably has very little professional experience with the average middle-American guy that shops JCPenney. And does that guy care about who Nick is?At the end of the day I don’t think those two questions matter in the least.
Nick is clearly an inspired and creative individual who will bring a fresh perspective and will certainly breathe new life into the staid retailer. Something that we can all agree is necessary, particularly with JCPenney’s men’s assortment. A great merchant is a great merchant and will be able to use the guidance and creative direction that Nick provides to only better the game at JCPenney. The challenge here really is, can Nick contribute meaningfully to the team in a way that influences the guys shopping at Macy’s, H&M, Zara, and even Gap to walk into the store and give the JCPenny brands a shot? And can he retain the current customer and move him along the fashion ladder comfortably so as to not alienate him?
And the biggest question of all: Will Nick be able to juggle both this daunting job and those partnerships and collaborations that we have all come to love and want more of (and that have added to his celebrity)? I think he can do it and continue to inspire us all.
Check out our complete coverage on Nick Wooster.
[Photo via Racked by Anna Fischer]
Loading ...Vogue Fest 2012
Need an excuse to go to London next month? How about this: Vogue UK is hosting Vogue Festival 2012 where Christopher Bailey (swoon), Diane von Furstenberg, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and even Tom Ford (double swoon) are slated to speak. Apparently Rachel Zoe is even expected to trot her tiny little frame out for an appearance (get ready for the fashion platitudes). Tickets are only £75 per session — a steal of a deal for some time with Messrs Ford and Bailey if you ask me…
Stefano Pilati Exits YSL
After Stefano Pilati’s Fall ’12 men’s presentation in Milan this past January I had one prevailing thought, “this signals the end of his time at the storied house of Saint Laurent.” I didn’t discuss that show here as I don’t typically cover collections and presentations on MD that I don’t absolutely love or find incredibly intriguing; there are simply too many collections each season to offer a point of view on each. But with the announcement of Mr. Pilati’s departure and the gossip that Hedi Slimane may return to lead the house I thought it an interesting tipping point for the YSL label.
I’ve never been a fan of Mr. Pilati’s menswear work at YSL. It’s not that I don’t respect the man as a designer (I do think that he’s quite talented and have admired much of his work in womenswear) — I just feel that, with menswear in particular, he never authentically connected with the heritage of the brand or the essence of its founder, Yves Saint Laurent. Mr. Pilati’s menswear collections often felt a bit disjointed, reductive, and unfamiliar. Taking a historic brand in a new direction, exploring new territory and exposing a clientele to a new way of thinking is often not just creatively necessary but financially prudent, yet for me it often appeared as if Mr. Pilati was confused on how to do that and unsure of what message he was trying sending.
His past two collection (Spring and Fall ’12) were clunky with a futuristic point of view on luxury apparel that was perhaps more Star Trek of the 1990′s than relevant to a forward thinking, edgy and sexual, modern YSL man.
Hedi Slimane is intimately connected to the YSL brand, having been the head designer and creative director for the men’s division of the house before leaving to lead Dior Homme where he became one of the most critically acclaimed and commercially successful menswear designers in the world. And then, at the height of his popularity and success, he gave it all up to focus on another passion, photography.
If Mr. Slimane does indeed return to YSL it may be just be that missing ingredient needed to focus the brand, especially given Hedi’s ability to project and deliver a vision of utter and singular creative unity.
Check out what others are saying about the change on Modern Destiny In The Moment.
R.I.P. Whitney
I’m devastated — in a way that is honestly shocking me. I feel so lucky to have lived in a time that allowed me to share in her gift…really there are no other words…
jcpenney’s CEO Responds to Ellen Controversy
jcpenney’s new CEO, Ron Johnson, responded to the Ellen controversy on yesterday’s CBS Morning Show. I couldn’t be more thrilled to see a retailer responding this way, doing what’s right and not giving in to bigotry.
Way to go, Ron!
For more MD coverage on jcpenney.
[Video via CBS News]
Ellen, jcpenney, and Prop 8
Last week I wrote about the changes underway at jcpenney. Among the many changes occurring at jcpenney is the presence of everyone’s favorite daytime chat show host, Ellen, as the struggling retailers new spokesperson. Which I personally think is a brilliant move. But it appears that there are some who have an issue with jcpenney hiring the openly gay comedian / host. A group calling themselves One Million Moms, a division of the American Family Association, is calling on jcpenney to replace Ellen as its new spokesperson. According to the One Million Moms website:
OMM began contacting JC Penney after the store announced that comedian Ellen Degeneres would become the company’s new spokesperson. Funny that JC Penney thinks that hiring an open homosexual spokesperson will help their business when most of its customers are traditional families.
jcpenney has stood by Ellen and affirmed its partnership with her. While this partnership has generated a lot of controversy, I hope what results is more people giving jcpenney a try again precisely because they stood by Ellen. I for one, will certainly be popping into the store to not only check out the changes, but to plop down some cash at a retailer / business who has done the right thing and not given into bigoted bullying. Watch Ellen’s response to the controversy and hear exactly what she stands for (far) below.
Which brings me to my second point. This week the Ninth Circuit U.S. Court of Appeals struck down the controversial California Proposition 8 as unconstitutional. This is the second time that a court has made this decision. We’ve heard a lot over the last few years from politicians, public figures, and celebs coming out against Prop 8. But what hasn’t gotten a lot of press are those business who have also done the right thing and shown their support for equality and come out against Prop 8 and / or for marriage equality. I’ve listed those that I could find on a few Google searches here:
Starbucks, Nike, Microsoft, Google, Kimpton Hotels, New Balance, Ogilvy, Time Warner Cable, Xerox, Aetna, Chubb, Diageo, Levi Strauss, Zipcar, CBS, Apple, PG&E, AT&T, Live Nation, Goldman Sachs, and Amazon.com
Google and Levi’s even went so far as to jointly file an Amicus Brief (Amicus curiae) along with the SF Chamber of Commerce stating their opposition to Proposition 8! How many businesses that you know, love and respect have done that?
Let’s be honest, the list is not nearly large enough given the gravity and magnitude of the issue. Wouldn’t it be amazing for the brands and retailers that we love to come out in support of the Ninth Circuit U.S. Court of Appeals decision, to publicly voice their support for the LGBTQ community, and to affirmatively state their support for equality?
For more on Proposition 8 visit our sister site, QClick.
Nick Wooster x PROJECT
Nick Wooster has, over the last few years, become one of the most important figures in menswear. His impeccable and unique style propelled him through the blogosphere into celebrity, becoming the sartorial darling of street style photographers around the globe. But Nick is more than an incredible moustache and pop of color, he’s an extremely talented merchant, stylist, and currator.
Nick (formerly men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus) has been doing impressive work with Gilt Group as a fashion advisor, and in just over a week Nick will show off his skills in his second collaboration with PROJECT:
Nick Wooster will showcase his personal exploration of how brands interpret the evolution of fashion and how they adopt and mold historical references into collections that move us forward and shape the future.
Using Tokyo as a pivotal source of inspiration, PROJECT Wooster highlights Japanese designers and exposes their mastery in crafting product that transcends culture and time. Based on the successful partnerships of the inaugural PROJECT Wooster, look for the launch of Nick Wooster collaborations with brands that he feels represent the best in class of each category.
PROJECT Wooster uncovers a systemic way of dressing that not only inspires individuals but also helps global retailers look at fashion though the eyes of those who are the masters of interpretation.
jcpenney Plots A New Course
Putting the beyond annoying commercial aside, I’m really intrigued and excited by the news announced last week at a press conference in NYC that there is much, much-needed change coming to jcpenney (and yes, apparently it is all lower case with no punctuation now). Recently installed CEO, Ron Johnson, (formerly of Apple and Target) made a bold statement for the future of the iconic retailer, “We don’t want to be America’s favorite department store; we want to be America’s favorite store.”
Last month I talked about the need for drastic innovation in the mass retail space for sustainability and a better consumer experiences. So I find the news coming from jcpenney not only thrilling and long over-due, but a breath of fresh air. Which is a suitable feeling given that the folks at jcpenney tilted their presentation in NYC last week, “In Praise of Fresh Air.”
In this presentation Ron Johnson and Michael Francis (president) detailed a new vision for jcpenney, the changes we can expect to see, and when they will occur. Among the most radical changes that is being introduced surrounds the complicated pricing and promotional structure that has plagued jcpenney for decades, and I would argue this same pricing issue applies to most retailers. Radically re-thinking the layout of the sales floor and how the customers shop and interact with product, and the roster of brands that are carried. And lastly, launching a new brand identity.
While there is some healthy skepticism out there surrounding a few points of this transformation (i.e. length of time for complete transformation, new logo, etc.), I believe that the boldness of the vision and scale of the change at jcpenney is fantastic and encouraging. A new approach to the business of mass retailing is much-needed in an industry that is often not fast enough to innovate. If executed well, jcpenney’s changes should push both department stores and big box stores to innovate their shopping experience much faster than may have happened otherwise. And with luck, that ripple effect will be felt throughout the retail industry.
And in the end, that is only good news for the consumer. Clearer and more honest pricing with less confusion surrounding promotional messaging is an absolute necessity across the industry, and we would appreciate better and more inspiring actual shopping experiences.
Read the full jcpenney press release. Check out WWD’s thoughts on the change. And, NRF has a great blog piece on the announcements.
[Photos via WWD by John Aquino]
David Beckham Bodywear for H&M
In addition to their full-time gigs, David and Victoria Beckham have built themselves a rather large apparel empire in recent years. David’s latest collaboration, Bodywear, for H&M may or may not generate the out-the-door lines of die-hard fashion fans that the Versace, Lanvin or Karl Largerfeld collaborations did, but it will certainly generate some heat.
As part of the global campaign to introduce the world to the David Beckham Bodywear collection, H&M has produced a stimulating (ah-hem..) commercial which will debut during Sunday’s Superbowl game. The ad, while certainly steamy, shows just about every part of David’s body except for the obvious part. Given how conservative the American football audience can be I understand the careful editing, but I also wonder if an unedited version featuring a full frontal Beck’s in those tighty whites may be lurking around… One can only dream, right? Perhaps the good folks at H&M will share that with us as well.
H&M and Mr. Beckham have inked what the Sweedish company is calling a “long-term alliance” the result of which is Bodywear. The collection, designed by David and his in-house creative team, will be sold exclusively at H&M with a focus on fit, function, comfort and design; and comprised of briefs, boxers, vests, T-shirts, pajamas and long johns. The collection will be available beginning February 2, 2012 at 1,800 H&M stores worldwide.
J.Crew to Expand Suiting Business With Dedicated Store Front
J.Crew continues its growth push with the opening of a new standalone suiting concept in TriBeCa next month. The Ludlow Shop will feature the now iconic Ludlow suit along with Thomas Mason shirts and their killer shoe assortment among other niche needs. J.Crew’s mens business has made a big impact over the past few years as they have gone after market share with increased attention to detail, quality and fit, killer assortments season-after-season featuring curated third-party product, and the opening of dedicated menswear only shops in Manhattan, San Francisco, and Boston. So it is not with too much surprise that the team at J.Crew is seeking to exert authority in specific specialty areas of the apparel business.
J.Crew’s CEO, Mickey Drexler, spoke to WWD last week:
The Ludlow suit has become a business unto itself at J. Crew…We were so squeezed at the Liquor Store that we found we were not able to service the Ludlow customer properly.
With J.Crew’s success in creating strong and unique destination experiences, such as The Liquor Store, and with a strong focused point of view on menswear trends then The Ludlow Shop will surely be an amazing opportunity for the retailer. And I can’t wait for my next trip to NYC to check it out.
Check out more MD coverage on J.Crew and Mickey Drexler. And read the full WWD story.
